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A Living from 
Poultru.... 




<^-'-* OR •^--'^ 



The Friendship Sustem 
of Poultru Keeping 




-BY= 



W. A. BELL 

ANACOSTIA, D. C. 





















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Class rj) t^tlj 
Book, 3^ - 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



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A Living from 
Poultru.... 



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-^--^ OR '^-'^ 



The Friendship Sustem 
of Poultru Keeping 




!Pr/ce S/. 00 Per Copt/, 



-3Y= 



W. A. BELL 

ANACOSTIA. D. C. 
1911 



Copyright Appi.ikd foh 

— BY — 

W. A. BELL 

Anacostia. D. C. 

March. lUU 



)CI.A2H4100 






\ .0- 



INTRODUCTION. 



A few years ago I started in the chicken business in a 
small way, the people had never seen chickens raised as I 
was raising them at this time. There was so many requests 
for information, that I begun to wonder what I could do to 
help the people who were seeking this information. Last 
August I was invited to read a paper before the Business 
League in New York, after reading the paper I was flooded 
with letters from all over the country for information, so I 
decided to publish this book, hoping that it will benefit thou- 
sands of my fellow beings who are struggling to better their 
ccmditions. 

I have tried to make everything as plain as I possibly 
could. I expect to follow the chicken business for many 
years to come and expect to experiment and find out every- 
thing that is a benefit to the business and a help to the peo- 
ple who are in the business. My findings will be published 
in Bulletin or Book form, of which the public will be notified. 

There is much to learn about the chicken business, and 
I hope that every purchaser of this book will join me in 
studying how to improve the business, which will most cer- 
tainly increase our poultry profits. 

Yours for success. 

W. A. BELL, 

Anacostia, D. C. 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Pullets at Feeding Time 7 

Just Out 9 

A Friendship Cockerel 5 Months Old 11 

Laying Pullets 5 Months Old 13 

A Laying House on Friendship Farm 15 

A Group of Wyandottes 17 

A Group of Leghorns 19 

CONTENTS 

Title Page 1 

Copyright 2 

Introduction 3 

Location 5 

Building 5 

Incubating 5 

Turning and Cooling The Eggs 5 

Brooding The Chicks 9 

Feeding The Chickens 11 

Selection of Breeders 13 

Pullets or Yearling Hens 14 

How To Select Laying Hens 14 

Lice and Mites 14 

Drinking Water 15 

Green Bone 15 

Green Food 16 

How To Keep Fresh Eggs 16 

Fattening The Cockerel 17 

Cleanliness 15 

How To Cure The Roup 20 

How To Make A Food Hopper 20 

New Feed F.xperiments 21 

A Dag With The Chickens on Friendship Farm 22 

The Publisher's "Ad." 25 

The Printer's "Ad." 24 

4 



LOCATION 



T N SELECTING A SITE for your poultry plant, 



*7;^5^ ^ you must see that it is located on a well drain- 
ed plot of ground. The house should point a little east of 
the direct south. The direct south would be alright were it 
to be continual summer, but when winter comes you will 
need all the sun radiation that you can find and the slight 
turn to the east will provide it when it will do the most 
good. This position will shelter the building from the west 
and the northwest winds. 

Before you start to build, consider well the question of 
drainage. The surface water should run from the house and 
not toward it, and you must be careful that moisture can- 
not collect under or around the house, for in that way you 
endanger the health of the birds. 

BUILDING 

In building tlie house you can have one pen or you can 
have five, I would advise that you only have five, or not over 
five if you care to have tliat many in one house. If you have 
over five they will not be so easy to attend to. 

I will now tell you how to build the house. After having 
the location and the direction in wliich you want your house, 
stake off the ground allowing the pens to be 10 feet wide and 
16 feet deep. A house 50 feet long will give you five pens. 

After laying off the lines for the building, you malice a 
foundation wall of cement, the wall to be 4 inches thick so as 
to carry a 4 inch sill, this wall is to be 6 inches in the 
ground and 6 inches above the ground. After the wall is 
complete, fill in the entire inclosure with stones, gravel or 
ashes, until it is about '2 inches from the top of the wall, fill 
the remaining '2 inches with cement, you will then have a 
floor that will be rat loroof and damp proof and one that 
will last you a life time. 

Your sills are to be 4x4 inch lumber. The liouse is to 



be 7 feet hi^-h in the front and 5 feet high in the back. 
The upriglits are to be of 2 x 4 inch studs, placed 3 feet a- 
part. At the corners I use 4x4 inch studs. The plates are 
made of 2 x 4 inch studs, the rafters are of 2x6 and have no 
projections beyond the plate. This makes it easier to make 
the back wall air-tight. For the back and sides I use a good 
Russet siding or 6 inch tongue and grooved flooring and tit 
the joints as tight as I can possibly get them. 

The front must be boarded up 2 feet from the bottom 
of the sill and 2 feet on each side of the pens, leaving an 
opening 6x5 feet to be covered with a 1 inch wire mesh. 
The door is to be in the east side of the house and near 
the front. Between each pen you must have a tight partition 
of tongue and grooved boards, running from the floor to the 
roof, you must allow 8 feet at the extream front of the par- 
tition for the door. The door should be .'li feet high and 
swing 1 foot clear of the floor, so that it will not interfere 
with the litter that is to be put on the floor. The other foot 
at the bottom of the door is to be boarded up. 

The drooping boards are placed 3 feet from the floor a- 
gainst the back wall, this leaves a plenty of room for the 
hens to w^ork in the litter under them. This height also leaves 
sufficient room for the attendant to easily gather any eggs 
that might be laid under them. The roost is made of 2 x 3 
incli studs witli the edge plained off and placed 1 foot above 
the drooping l)oards, the ends resting on pieces nailed to each 
wall 1 foot above the drooping boards and are notched so 
that the roost will flt into them. The first perch is placed 
12 inches from the back wall and the succeeding ones are 
placed 1") inclies apart, allowing ;> perches to a pen. The 
front of the drooping boards ai-e 1') inches in front of the 
first roost. 

Beginning at a point level with the drooping l^oards, we 
board up the back walls with tongue and grooved lioards, 
clear to the cealing, tliis makes a dou]:)le wall for the Ijack 
or north side of the house. 

The roof is made of i sheathing, on top of whicli is laid 
a 2 ])ly i-oofing ])aper. Being very careful to cement the 

6 



joints unci nail it down well. L'ai'e should be taken so as to 
have the paper lap at all corners and joints, and around the 
ridt^es, so as to pi'event any drauii:hts from t?etting in at 
these points. 

You must make a curtain of muslin to cover the entire 
wire front of the house, this curtain is to be let down on 
cool nights and raised in the day after the sun is up. You 
must also have another curtain directly in front of the roost, 
to be let down on real cold nii?hts to protect your birds and 
keep them comfortable. This curtain is raised in the morn- 
ing after the chickens are off the roost. 




Pullets at Feeding Time. 

When the house is complete I cover the floor with sifted 
garden soil to the depth of about H inches. Get it good arid 
dry and it will last you a year I renew it every fall. The 
way that I do is, every wheel-barrow of evirth that I take out 
I put another fresh one in the place of the one carried out, 
as soon as I get the earth out of the house and on the ground. 



I sow it in Icalf or crimson clover, if kale, I have it to cut all 
theN winter as j2,-reen food, if clover I have it to feed in 
the spring-. 

INCUBATING 

When I first start my incubators I usually run them two 
or three days so as to make absolutely sure that the ther- 
mometer is correct and that the temperature is the same in 
all parts of the machine. 

The correct temperature should be lOi' the first week, 
lo;! the second week 108? to 104 the third week, after seeing- 
that the temperature is alright, I fill the machine with well 
selected medium size clean eggs free from any flaws in the 
shell. The first day I do not touch them. The sec(md day 
I just simply pull the tray out and turn it end for end. on 
the morning of the third day I stai't to turn my eggs. I 
turn them twice each day until the night of the eighteenth 
day. I test my eggs on the ninth and eighteenth days. On 
the night of the eighteenth day I take a cloth and soak it in 
warm water, then I wring it almost dry, spread it over the 
eggs and leave it until the morning of the nineteenth day, 
this softens the shell and makes it easier for the chicks to 
get out. Even then I find that there are some chicks that 
cannot pick their way out. I take my pocket knife and pick 
a hole in the lai'ge end of the egg being very careful not to 
break the inner shell or skin, put the egg back in the macine 
under a moist cloth and in that way save many chicks tliat 
would otherwise he lost. 

TURNING AND COOLING THE EGGS 

In turning the eggs I place a block' or book undei' one 
end of the tray, remove an egg from a i-ow and let all the 
rest down gently, this does not jar the eggs and is a safe 
metliod. It is liest to turn ail eggs by liand in all l)]anlc 



trays I cool the e^gs to a temperature equal to luke warm 
water, then replace them in the machine again. Never cool 
eggs in a temperature below 60 as it is a positive injury to 
do so. 




Just out. 



BROODING TME CHICKS 

Be sure and get the very best brooder that you can buy, 
get an indoor brooder. Then divide one of your pens into 
three small pens and put a brooder into each pen. This 
will give you three brooders in one of your large pens 10 x 
16. Do not put over 50 chickens in each brooder. 

These small pens do not come all the way to the front 
of the house, I leave a '2 foot space for a passage way, the 
brooders are put in the front end 2 feet from the front of 
the house, facing the back of the house. I use a "2 foot 1 
inch mesh wire, so that you can step from pen to pen 
without any trouble, this wire runs back to the back wall 
under the drooping boards, as I do not move the drooping 
boards because the chickens will use them when they are 
old enough. I also run a 2 foot wire along the back of the 
brooders to keep the chickens from getting in the pas- 
sage way. 

Your brooder should be heated according to the direc- 
tions of the maker, your chicks should be put into the 
brooder as soon as they are dry in the incubator, you should 
not feed them for 48 hours after they are taken from the 
machine, (see feeding) 



The chickens should not l)e aUowecl to ^"et more than a 
foot away from the heat the tirst day, two feet the second 
day and three feet the third day. After that they can have 
the use of the whole run. You must watch them very care- 
fully and see that they all get back safely without chilling. 
iVfter the third day they will run in and out of the bi'ooder 
without any trouble. 

After the chicks are four weeks old they should not 
have any more heat. In fact, after that heat is very injurious 
to them, they will grow faster and be more healthy, if not 
given any heat, but handled as I tell you. 

Build a box 21 inches square, H inches deep, with a re- 
moveable top, i inch lumber is best, have a tight board bottom. 
Across the sides nail '2 slats about 5 inches from the lloor, 
make a frame of lath.s just to tit inside of the box resting 
on top of the slats. C(wer the frame with burlap or muslin, 
allow the burlap or muslin to bag down about 2 inches below 
the center of the frame or 8 inches from the floor in the 
center of the box. Have an opening in the center of the box 
i'A inches sc^uare, at the top of the box on 2 .sides at the cen- 
ter make an opening 1-7) inch, this serves as a handle as well 
as f(n' ventilati(m. 

Line the bottom part of the box with felt (m the sides, 
and cover the floor with cut ck)ver, cut hay, or dried leaves. 
I like the leaves the best, as they do not pack and are not 
heavy foi- the little chicks to scratch in. 

Now make a cushion of cotton batten and cover it with 
burlap or muslin and make it to tit the inside of the box on 
the frame, this cushion is to be made about 2 inches thich. 

After having your cold brooder ready, drive all the 
chickens out of the heated to the far end of the pen, then 
place the l)roode]" Ijox in th(^ i)ens, in front of the heated 
brooder, ('losing off any chance that they may have in gett- 
ing l)a('k to the heated Ijrooder. When this is done late in the 
aftei'noon, I And that they will nearly all go in the l)ox. with- 
out any trouble. .")() chicks in a pen will make enough heaf 
to keep them comfortable. We keep the chickens in this box 
until tlioy are (> oi' 7 weeks old. 

10 



box - feet wide 3 feet long and 12 inches high in front and 

() inches m the back, with a removeable tSp and a tight 

board bottom. I use i or i inch lumber for this box the 

each side , inch for handle and ventilation. Drive the 
chicks out as you did before and place the box in the place 
of the smaller one. As soon as the chickens get so tharvou 
canned keep them in the small runs, remove the wire and 
let them all run tog;ether in the one large pen, but they mu^t 

box'^t'night '^" "^'^^ "^^^ '^^^^^ "1^ ^"^ ^« - ^^^^ -n 
Always start your chickens in the last pen if you have 
more than one, and the next in the next pei\ and .^ on ai 
ways keeping the youngest chicks near you. 




A Friendship Cockerel 5 Months Old. 

PEEDING TME CMICKENS 

Remove tlie chicks from the Incubator as soon as they 



11 



are dry and put them into the brooder under the hoover, do 
not try and feed them until they come from under the hoover 
and cry for somethings to eat. 

The first food should be rolled oats ground to meal in a 
food grinder, mixed with equal parts of toasted bread (stale 
bread) ground in the same manner. This bread should be 
toasted as hard as possible. Do not give them anything else 
but clear clean water with the chill off. 

We make a small shallow box of packing box lumber, 
six inches wide and two feet long, sides two inches high. 
Two one-inch strips nailed long-ways across the top. This 
is kept full of the oat and bread mixture; after three days we 
add 10 per cent of good beef scrap to the mixture. 

All chickens that do not come from under the hoover but 
act sluggish or droopy, should be taken away from the others 
and put to themselves. These chickens should be sold as soon 
as they are large enough, they should never be kept, as they 
will never produce satisfactory results. 

We keep our brooder floors covered with about three 
inches of dry leaves and find it better than any other kind 
of litter that we have ever used, as it does not pack. In 
these leaves we scatter some good commercial chick feed, four 
times a day; this induces exercise and prevents leg weakness. 
After the chickens are a week old, we keep before them 
oyster shells, grit, charcoal and beef-scrap at all times. 

When the chickens are a week old, we change the oat 
and bread mixture and feed two parts wheat brand, two 
parts corn meal and two parts beef-scrap. We keep this 
l)ef()re them all the time; (mce a week, we add a spoonful of 
cayenne pepper, sulphur, sulphate of soda, flaxseed meal, salt 
and ginger to stimilate and keep their systems in good order. 

After the third day, the chickens must be fed some green 
food, we usually feed it at no(m; lettice, kale, cabbage or 
si^routed oats, this must be supplied every day. When the 
chickens are six weeks old, we feed two parts middlings, 
two ])arts brand, four parts corn meal, one i)art linseed meal, 
and two parts beef-scrap, also mix a spoonful of cayenne pep- 



per, sulphur, etc. once a week. We now feed in the htter equal 
parts of wheat, cracked corn, kaffir corn, and hulled oats, 
we feed this night and morning, (see hopper) 

At 4i or 5 months of age, your pullets should be laying 
or about to begin laying. At this age, we- feed one part of 
grounded oats, two parts of corn meal, two parts of wheat 
brand, one part of beef -meal, and one part of linseed meal, 
add once a week a handful of cayenne peper, sulphur, etc. 
In the morning we feed equal parts of cracked corn, wheat 
and oats; at night we feed, one-half part of wheat and oats 
and two parts of cracked corn. All the grain is fed in the 
litter, all the mash is fed dry in hoppers, (see hopper) 




Laying Pullets 5 Months Old. 



SELECTION OE BREEDERS 

Selecting the breeders, may well be considei-ed the 
success or failure in the poultry business, and it should re- 
ceive your careful thought. You are going in the business 

r6 



to make money, so do not be contented with scrub stock 
for it makes a poor investment. You must get the very 
best birds that you are able to buy. This is the rock on 
which many poultrymen fail, so be sure and start right. 
You must breed from only the strongest and most vigerous 
birds that can be found. 



PULLETS OR YEARLING MENS 

The best beginning is made with healthy, thrifty yearling 
hens. They will not only give you a satisfactory winter egg 
yield, but will produce stronger and better chicks in the 
spring. Fifty hens should lay you twenty-five hundred eggs 
between October the first and June the first. If five hundred 
of these eggs are incubated, there should be from three to four 
hundred chickens hatched and the remaining tw^o thousand 
eggs should bring you about $40.00. The value of the chickens 
the first year should not only pay for the cost of the stock 
and feed but should also pay part of the cost of the build- 
ings and fixtures. Pullets hatched during March, April and 
May and cared for the Friendship way should begin laying 
in the fall, and continue laying right through the winter. 

MOW TO SELECT LADING MENS 

A good and absolutely sure test is after the hens have gone 
to roost, take a lantern and go in the hen house and feel 
the hens' craws. The ones that have good, big, full craws 
you can brand as good egg producers and are valuable hens, 
the ones that you want to breed from. Those that have 
craws about the size of a marble should be discarded as 
they will never make good layers. 

LICE AND AMTES 

A lousy hen will never lay eggs enough to pay for lier 

14 



feed. I take live pounds ol' sulphur and live pounds ol 
naphthaline and mix it with a wheel -bar row of hard coal ashes 
and put it in boxes for them to dust in. I put lime in the 
bottom of the nest and hay on top of it and in that way I 
am never troubled with lice or mites. 




A Laying House on Friendship Farm. 



DRINKING WATER 

The hens and chickens should be g-iven nothin*^- but fresh, 
clean, clear, pure water to drink. The drinkin^^- vessels 
should be washed and cleaned every day, you cannot be too 
careful about the water that you give them to drink as the 
greater part of the egg is made of water. 



GREEN BONE 

Mother nature prol:)ably knew what she was about when 

1.") 



she gave the hen such an appetite for worms, bug- and g-rubs. 
When these can not be found, we must find a substitute 
for them, and the greatest substitute known to the poultry 
world is ground green bone. 

Ground green bone is cheap in price and very nutritious, 
easily digested and greatly relished by the fowls, it is simi- 
lating and strengthing to the e^^ organs. Very great care 
should be used so as not to feed any spoiled bone or meat 
as it might cause an aggravated case of diarrhea, which is 
practically incurable. I feed an average of about an once of 
lione a day to each hen. 

GREEN EOOD 

Take a good quality of white clipped oats, one bushel 
will make four when sprouted. The oats are placed in a wa- 
ter tight vessel and covered with warm water and allowed 
to stand for twenty-four hours, then they are emptied into 
a box that will allow the water to drain off freely. Oats are 
left in this box and wetted twice a day with warm water un- 
til the oats have sprouted, then they are spread in boxes a- 
bout an inch deep. You continue to sprinkle until the oats 
are as large as desired, which is about four ov live inches in 
length. The hens will eat roots and all. 

With a temperature of about 60, it will take about ten 
days to sprout them, after the first day you can provide for 
each days green food. Chickens a week old will eat them, 
in fact, will leave everything else for them. 

MOW TO KEEP ERESM EGGS 

After the breeding season is over and the demand for 
eggs for hatching and market purposes are not so great, 
and prices are low, I pack my eggs and keep them for Ijet- 
ter prices. 

First, I separate my male and females. The eggs then 
are infertil and will dry up ])efore tliey will s])oil. I get a 

11) 



whiskey barreland put bran in it and set tlie e^-j^^'s on tlie 
sharp end, the bi^- end up. I put in a layer of bran and a 
layer of egg-s, until the barrel is tilled. I then get some 
heavy wrapping paper and seal the barrel, I put the paper 
over the barrel as tight as I can get it, then glue or paste 
it all around, then I put on two or three more layers, one 
at a time and paste them down tight, then I tie a string a- 
round it to make sure that it is tight and no air can get in 
it. I then put the barrel in a cool dry place. 

Along about the first of December when the price of 
eggs are high and the demand is the greatest, I put these 




A Group of Wyandottes. 



eggs in a crate and send them to town, and they l)ring from 
80 to .')() cents a dozen. And are far superior to any cold 



TATTENING TtlE COCKEREL 

The cockerels are separated from the pullets as soon as 
I am able to distinguish the sexes, and all that I do not in- 

17 



tend keepini^: for breeders are fed for market. I place 100 
cockerels in one of my pens 10 x It) feet, in this way I tind 
that they make a more rapid growth than when crate fattened 
and brintr a higher price than they would other-wise. I 
place two V shape troughs in the pen, they are about s feet 
long, in them I feed two parts ground oats, two parts buck- 
wheat meal, two parts corn meal, mixed with skim milk to 
the consistency of a thin porridge. This mash should be 
prepared about 12 hours before it is fed so that it will have 
time to ferment a little, thus rendering it more fat produc- 
ing. The mash is fed twice a day, and every other day I 
add a handful of salt and pepper to keep up their api^etites. 
Occasionally I use molasses instead of the sour milk, this 
nrakes a very rich and nutritious feed. 

I plan to feed this mash about three weeks, and in the 
last ten days I mix in 7 ounce of tallow per bird per day, 
keeping water before them all the time. Do not feed any- 
thing for 21 hours before killing, you will be surprised at the 
tine quality of l)ird that you will have to sell. 



CLEANLINESS 

The drooping boards should be kept sprinkled with ashes, 
and cleaned at least three times a week. The litter should 
be removed whenever it becomes heavy and packed, and 
new litter put in its place. The dust baths should be kept 
tilled with dusting material. Spray the houses with a solu- 
ti(m of one half pint of crude Carbolic Acid, to fifteen pints of 
kerosene or coal oil. Do this at least once a week, but it is 
better to do it twice instead of once, the nest should be 
treated the same as the rest of the house, all the fixtures 
should be treated the same way. 

After all has been said in regard to a proper system of 
feeding your poultry, ]>rofits will l)e nothing unless every 
other i)oint in the care of your fowls is carefully looked 
after. Fowls have a delicate natui-e, the same as any living 
creature and thev must have good care if they are to he 



kept in good health. Sickness and death among your fowls 
might come from any of the following reasons: 

Damp, unclean and unsanitary quarters. Too much wet 
or cooked food. Lice and mites. Unsanitary roost and nest 
boxes. Drafts in roosting room. Moldy and dirty straw for 
scratching litter. Lack of a good dusting bath. Neglect of 
caring for sick birds. Too many fow^ls in one room. Stale 
and filthy drinking water. 




A Group of Leghorns. 



Hens cannot and will not lay if they are not in good 
health and properly fed, therefore, to get paying results any 
poultryman must be constantly on the alert to keep his fowls 
in the best condition. Keep in mind the points just mention- 
ed and I dare say that you will have little occasion to talk 
about sickness among your fowls. 

11) 



now TO CURE inn roup 

The first symptoms of roup appearing in your flock will 
be the wheezy and apparent stopped up condition of the 
throat and nose and a watery discharge from the nose. The 
fowls have spells of sneezing and will set around and act 
very dumpish and will not eat any food. Those showing 
these signs apparently have only a slight cold, but you must 
be on your guard and be prepared to fight the disease in 
its first stage. 

First I give a spoonful of castor oil, then I give a two 
grain quinine pill three times a day. You must have an oil 
can, one like those used to oil machinery, only smaller, then 
remove the top and replace with a cork which fits tight, 
make a hole in the cork and insert a quill from a good size 
feather, cutting the top off so that a good size stream of oil 
can flow through. Now take your can and force some oil up 
each nostril and then into the roof of the mouth, in the slot 
that you see there, be sure and get it in there by all means, 
if you do not an abscess will form and if it does, you had 
better kill the bird. If you follow this treatment it is a 
sure cure. 

now TO HAKE A EOOD nOPPER 

I take two pieces of six inch flooring, five feet long, nail 
them together, this forms the bottom. Two more pieces 
the same length form the sides, and two short pieces one 
foot long form the ends, you then have a box .'i feet long, 
1 foot wide and (i inches high. Now make a frame of 1 inch 
material that will just fit nicely in the box, or about i of an 
incli smaller than the box on all sides. Cover this frame 
with one inch wire mesh, fill the box and lay this follower 
inside of the liox on the feed with the wire side down so 
that the ends cannot cut the chickens, for young chicks I 
set the })ox flat on the ground and feed in this hopper as 
soon as the chicks are too large to eat from the small 

20 



hoppers. For lar^v or i^-rown lairds I add le^s and raise it 
one foot from the ^^-round. This makes one of the best hop- 
pers that you can use as there is absolutely no waste and 
the chicks have to eat every bit of the food that is placed 
in it. 

NEW TEED EXPERl.HENTS 

In the last few months I have been experimenting^: with 
a new bone that has not long- been on the market, and I tind 
that it gives grand results. I mix a mash as follows: 200 
pounds corn-meal, 100 pounds gluten-meal, 100 pounds wheat- 
middlings, 100 pounds wheat-brand, 50 pounds superfine 
hen-e-ta bone, 100 pounds number 1 hen-e-ta bone. This is 
put in a hopper and fed to the chicks from the time they 
are two days old, until you are through with them, never 
letting them be without it. I feed sprouted oats twice a day, 
and grain only once a day and that is for the evening meal, 
I feed enough so that some will be left over for morning. 

I feed the following mixture: 200 pounds cracked-corn, 
7)0 pounds kaftir-corn 27)0 pounds cracked-wheat', this is fed 
to the small or growing chicks. To the laying hens, I feed 
the following: 100 pounds cracked-corn, 100 pounds wheat, 
100 pounds barley, 100 pounds oats. The grain is fed in the 
litter and the mash in the hoppers as same as formerly. 

Under this new experiment I am getting more eggs 
than I ever did l^efore and with almost lialf the trouble. 



NOTICE. If you cannot get this bon(^ in your section, 
I will ship it to you f. o. b. Washington, or Anacostia, 
D. C. at $2.50 per 100 pound sack. 

In useing this bone you do not use any other bone, grit, 
oyster-shells, meat-scraps, charcoal or anything of that kind. 

21 



A Day with the Chickens on Friendship Farm. 

GOOD MORNING- 

6:30 a. m. Turn and cool eggs in the incubator. 

8:00 a. m. Water the chickens, giving warm water in the winter 

and cool water in the summer. The curtains are 

raised at this time. 
9:00 a. m. Feed sprouted oats. 
10:00 a. m. Glean droopings. 

1 1 :00 a. m. Gather eggs, mark and date all breeding eggs. 
12:00 m. Feed turnips, kale or cabbage. 
1:00 p. m. Water the chickens. 
3:00 p. m. Feed sprouted oats. 
3:30 p. m. Gather the eggs, etc. 

4:30 p. m. Feed the evening grain, 1 pint to every twelve hens. 
5:00 p. m. Put down the curtains, rake up all straw into a pile 

in each pen in the center or the floor, throw your 

morning grain into this pile. 
5:30 p. m. Empty the water in the pens, gather the eggs if any; 

lock up for the night. 
6:30 p. m. Turn and cool the eggs in the incubators, trim and 

fill the incubator lamps. 

GOOD NIGHT. 



.)•) 



Friendship Poultry Farm 

-Breeders of Tlie— 

FRIENDSHIP STRAIN 



=OF= 



...Great Winter Layers... 

White Wyandottes, T ri/TK^rnc 
White and Bround LcyilOlllo 

BRED AND REARED UNDER THE 

FRIENDSHIP SYSTEM OF POULTRY KEEPING 



STOCK FOR SALE 

Friendship Poultry Farm 

ALABAMA AND STANTON ROADS, 
Anacostia, D. C. 



•>n 



KAR 11 tdtl 



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